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Engawa

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The meaning of Engawa is simply the space between the fish’s body and the sea – we know it as the fin’s muscle. This part of the fish represents the idea of enjoying texture by combining other tastes. In the West we think of foods in terms of a single taste without texture being in the forefront.

Here in the East texture is an element of taste and can be just as important. In this case we combine Engawa with “Ponzu”, a sauce made by each chef, like the broth of a soup and the vegetables within the soup, you need the two hand in hand to appreciate the soup’s flavor and gusto.

The Ponzu is a chef’s signature, it has a very different taste from shop to shop and the ingredients and combinations vary – no two Ponzu sauces are the same.

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Filed under: Sushi n'Style Tagged: engawa, Japanese sushi

Saba = Spanish Mackerel

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Saba is Spanish Mackerel – the perfect winter fish served sashimi styled. This fish lives in the cold waters and develops a taste and texture you’ll never forget. This is cleaned, salted and cured to develop a taste that is delicate, rich and long-lasting on your palate.

We are narrowing to the end of 2013, there is one more day of sushi until next year.

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Filed under: Sushi n'Style Tagged: Japanese sushi, Spanish Mackerel, sushi. sashimi, Tokyo

“no/no”– Tokyo

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I look at sushi pictures taken by bloggers and experts all the time. In particular I was astonished by some photos taken by tinyurbankitchen.com a good blogger but please – do you need to show yourself at the counter in a sleeveless shirt. Let me tell you that in any sushi establishment worthwhile, this would be a very big “no/no”. It is something that is just not common or uncommon, it is rather bordering rude. I prefer nori-maki, it is more classy (sorry) be more respectful next time.


Filed under: Sushi n'Style Tagged: tinyurbankitchen.com

IKA = Squid

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One of my favorite types of fish used in sushi is “IKA” = squid and is very popular in Japan. There are about 500 species of squid live throughout the world, 130 species of them are living in Japan. Most famous kinds as a sushi are “Sumi ika”, “Yari ika”, “Aori ika” or “Surume ika”. The basic taste of raw squid is firm texture, some kinds are mild or gooey.

There is also “Hotaru ika” is another kind of squid, there’s another name to be called “firefly squid” because this is equipped with special light-producing organs. These are found on many parts of the squid’s body and emit a deep blue light.

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Filed under: Sushi n'Style

The Good, Bad & Ugly

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So when you eat sushi what are the tell-tale signs of good fish, I am asked recently by a guest. What do you look for when selecting fish from an array of fish being offered.

The first aspect is the flesh, the surface and the general appearance. In the photo you have two of the same fish, same camera, same period of the year, and so which fish would you choose?

I think it is easy, especially if you see the general appearance of both fish. Horse Mackerel is not supposed to look white, shoyu should not be too dark, the flesh neither dull, pale or lacking the brilliance of fresh domestic Saba. When you see this type of fish, a chef tells you his story, past and present. I am embarrassed to say, the sushi pictured is not good enough to pass by test, while the sashimi below is the perfect quality.

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Filed under: Sushi n'Style Tagged: how to know what is good sushi, Sushi, The best sushi, Tokyo sushi, what does bad sushi look like

Geiso

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A normal squid sushi uses the mantle or the hood of the squid but some prefer the tentacles which are poached – this is called ika, geso or squid legs. It is served with amadare, or tsume, a sweet sauce used in old fashion Edo style sushi for cooked ingredients. The word tsume comes from nitsume or reduction. On top is a touch of tōgarashi the red colour, it adds a bite but is not too spicy, a very subtle contrast of sweet and spicy, the chef asks us to mix it.

If you look closely, you can see the quality of the fish by the detail of the suction cups of the squid – they are mostly in tact.

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Filed under: Sushi n'Style Tagged: amadare, geso

Sushi Taste

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Sushi taste is more complex than meets the tongue. The flavours and textures all combined into a raw experience that has popularized the raw fish phenomenon all over the globe. But taking a beginner for advanced sushi can present taste problems.

Most foreigners think sushi is salmon, or yellow tail, and wasabi and shoyu are used like soup-sauce – wrong. Wasabi and shoyu are added by the chef, and I still wonder why chefs provide a sauce dish for shoyu. My guess is, its polite, some clients are salt junkies, and most Japanese chefs are obliged to satisfy their clients.

Many amateurs take for granted the complexity of sushi. Once I was discussing sushi with a three star Michelin chef, he proclaimed, “sushi is not food”. What I determined from his comments were, he could not sense the smallest details in the preparation of sushi. He believed that uncooked food is not food, but he was wrong, sushi begins with the preparation and cooking of thousands of grains of rice.

Selecting rice, washing the rice, and cooking the rice is key to the taste of sushi. Each chef has his own mind to season his sushi rice. Ultimately the preparation of the rice is what forms the basis of taste. But taste doesn’t need to become over complicated, it can still be complex if the composition is based on a sophisticated structure.

The process of cooling the rice departs the final taste, lingering flavours of vinegar and a sweetness in balance. The starches in the rice glue the tastes, wasabi, shoyu and in this case tsume, a glaze used to brighten the flavours.

In reality, all qualities of taste can be elicited from all the regions of the tongue that contain taste buds. One of the most dubious facts about taste and one that is commonly reproduced in textbooks, is the misleading “tongue map” showing large regional differences in sensitivity across the tongue. The maps arose early in the 20th century as a result of a misinterpretation of research reported in the late 1800′s, and they have been almost impossible to purge from the literature.


Filed under: Sushi n'Style Tagged: geso, Sushi, taste maps, tasting sushi, tsume, what is sushi

Ōma Maguro

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Ōma is famous for its tuna which was caught in the traditional manner by hand in two-person boats, and sold under the “Ōma” registered trademark. This is as good as it gets, the waters are cold, the tuna are moving fast, feeding and landing red maguro at its finest.

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Filed under: Sushi n'Style

Anago = sea water eel

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I have pictured Anago many times, but I forgot to mention the differences. If you are addicted to Anago, I hope I don’t spoil your bubble. If you eat Anago in New York, where it is imported, it is usually frozen solid. In this case, the Anago is served hot, or warmed in a toaster, or over a fire.

In fact, the Anago served below is never re-heated or warmed over a fire. That makes no sense at all, unless the quality of the fish is inferior. Below are two parts of the Anago, one served with tsume and the other plain.

The white Anago is the part closer to the tail, it has more bones, but you cannot detect the bones as they are invisible in your mouth. These both are served room temperature – balanced perfectly they melt in your mouth.

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Filed under: Sushi n'Style Tagged: Anago, conger eel, dangers of eel, Japan eel, sea eel, sea water eel, why eat eel

“Temperature Excitable”

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The idea of temperature and texture playing a significant role in taste. I posted yesterday night about Temperature, Texture, and Taste and I am carrying forward the idea by simple illustration.

In most cases food has a temperature that is optimal, a temperature that exploits the best taste. This temperature can range below or above our mouth’s temperature with our ordinary mouth temperature @ 35°C. Now imagine the sensation of a cold anything in your mouth. The sensation is immediate, the temperature drops by as much as 5°C-10°C, what I refer to as “temperature excitable”.

When it comes to vegetables, we do not need to cook them to optimize their taste, we can chop, dice, mire poix and or grind them into a puree. Now think of sushi as a vegetable, a cuisine so pure, little cooking is needed. Fish in its second purest state, Japanese are so meticulous about their fish; fishing, packing and transporting their fish is down to a science.

In the case of sushi’s freshness, the fish is often various degrees of chewy. If you think about it, raw flesh should be chewy, not anything else. The Japanese have a common name for certain foods that are chewy, rather hard to chew, or even crunchy. In the picture below, this fish is amongst the toughest to chew, named Awabi.

The name “katai”, describes the crunh of Awabi, it’s about the influence of texture, something I talked about before, and I raise again. You can eat Hirame’s engawa, a muscle of the fin and it is more or less the same taste as the flesh. The main difference is the texture, the engawa is more chewy.

The chewy is thought of encouraging more mastication. During the mastication, we gain the sensation of being in contact with our food, food contact, the longer it takes to chew the more we notice it, the more we either connect or disconnect. So when we eat raw fish, it is not always the fish itself that influences us, it’s a combination of factors.

Shellfish are more on the side of chewy, and Awabi is extreme, its super crunchy. What is interesting about Awabi is, the outer shell of the fish is “katai”, while the interior is silky and much less chewy. Can you imagine any food in the West that has the same sensations, except for some fruits. Seldom in the West that foods have dual textures, eaten raw and adored by so many.

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Filed under: Life Cycles, Sushi n'Style Tagged: Sushi in Japan, sushi sensation

Southern Bluefin

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In a small high-end sushi countered restaurant, the cut of tuna is dependant on domestically caught tuna. Typically from Ōma, the Maguro there is considered the finest in the winter months. You can see the cuts are very similar, (photoed below), cut from the same piece, the cuts differ in colour slightly, as the tuna has varying colours of red throughout the section.

These sashimi cuts are from “true tuna”, bluefin tuna a member of Scombridae family a subgenus species. The bluefin is world-famous for the price it fetches, prized in sushi counters across Japan. The Scombridae are famously fast, swimming to stay alive, and mostly delicious in taste.

The southern bluefin tuna does not require a separate pump mechanism to pump water over the gills, the water passes as they are always under constant movement. The faster it swims, the increasing the oxygen uptake it gets. This overall high oxygen uptake works in close coordination with a well-adapted circulatory system to meet the high metabolic needs of the southern bluefin tuna.

Their major arteries and veins run longitudinally to and from the red swimming muscles, which are found close to the spinal column, just underneath the skin.  Southern bluefin tuna have a high blood hemoglobin content and the meat can be super red. This species of tuna inhabits ocean areas that are relatively high in salinity compared to the rest of the world’s oceans.

Southern bluefin tunas are thermo-conserving and can function over a wide range of temperature conditions, which allows them to dive from the surface of the water to depths of 1000m, in only a few minutes.

The southern bluefin tuna experience a wide range of ambient water temperatures, from a minimum of 2.6 °C to a maximum of 30.4 °C. These tunas often migrate vertically through the water column in search of their preferential temperature, as well as spend time in cooler waters searching for prey.

In fact on National Geographic they have a regular show on Tuna fishing, it makes me shiver when I watched it. These fishermen are “yahoos”, and have no idea what they are doing, a tragedy for the tuna.

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Filed under: Sushi n'Style, What is Mesubim [?] Tagged: Scombridae, Southern Bluefin, Tuna

Torigai Shiso

Aoyagi’s Abductor

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Knowing your sushi cost is key to enjoying the experience. Very often “gaijin visitors” ask for sushi, and I feel obliged to take them. However there are numerous levels of sushi, the idea knowing and understanding the differences.

These two fish are directly related; one is Aoyagi’s foot or belly, and the other is the anterior abductors muscle, named kobashira.

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Filed under: Sushi n'Style Tagged: aoyagi, Japan's best fish, Japanese fish names, Sushi in Japan, what is the difference in sushi

Tokyo’s “30″ Best Sushi

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The 30 best sushi restaurants according to Table log, a Japanese rating system based on customers ratings: http://tabelog.com

The famous Sukiyabashi Jiro has only 3.81 rating by “sushi customers” from a total of 5 points. He is only 48th best sushi counter in Tokyo: http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130101/13002260

1. Sushi Saito [***] http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1308/A130802/13015251

2. Hashiguchi  http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1308/A130801/13134517

3. Ichikawa [*] http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1317/A131715/13140619

4. Miyako http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1302/A130204/13018162

5. Sawada [**] http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130101/13001043

6. Oono http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130101/13024790

7.  Garyuu http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1309/A130903/13127957

8. Harutaka [*] http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130103/13032283

9.  Sakae http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1311/A131102/13008701

10. Mizutani [***] http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130103/13016524

11. Hayashi http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1319/A131904/13070215

12. Mitani http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1309/A130902/13042204

13. Nanba http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1319/A131905/13127515

14. Masa  http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1311/A131103/13041420/dtlmap

15. Kozasa http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1303/A130301/13004630

16. Mao http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130101/13093660

17. Daisan Harumi http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130103/13002140

18. Nakamura [*] http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1307/A130701/13003314

19. Sushi-sho http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1309/A130902/13000852

20. Yoshitake [***] http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130103/13024076

21. Hashiguchi Asakusa http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1311/A131102/13050788

22. Shinbashi Shimizu http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130103/13002892

23. Kanesaka [*] http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130103/13005003

24. Tsu http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1307/A130701/13061640

25. Masa http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1307/A130703/13016512

26. Imamura [*] http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1316/A131602/13096905

27. Hatsune [*] http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1315/A131503/13017742

28. Matsunami http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1311/A131102/13003660

29. Koyama http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1329/A132904/13091479

30. U o toku http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1312/A131203/13017947

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Filed under: Sushi n'Style Tagged: how to find the best sushi, Raw fish, sashimi in Tokyo, sushi in Tokyo, Table log, the best sushi chefs, Tokyo best sushi restaurants, what are Tokyo's best sushi restaurants

Scary or Not ! [Sushi]

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Foreigners are scary sometimes, Japanese too. I walked past this mannequin and it scared me for a split second. I was on my way for some sushi, my favourite hangout, I am often the only person there at lunch, or it is full.

I have been going to the same sushi counter for 30+ years and I never get bored of the quality. I think what most people miss is understanding quality sushi. I know the standard in Japan is excellent, but so many sushi counters are sterile. Young sushi chefs focus more on style, and less on tradition, or these confuse both.

I am not searching for show off knife technique extraordinare, or fancy cuts, or spongy tamago, I am interested in balance. The balance between sushi and rice, between taste and texture. The idea that red wine vinegar does not have any bite, or pronounced taste when you bite your sushi. I cannot enjoy myself when a sushi chef’s rice vinegar dominates the taste, and it happens more than you think.

I was doing some research today and I went through my sushi binder, I have 15 pages. I re-visited many, searched them on the internet, and found out that some became Michelin. It makes sense, but what happens when a sushi counter gets Michelinized – not much good. A good sushi counter cannot accept foreigners unless they are well-trained in sushi etiquette, that means; no perfume, no elbows, no wasabi sauce, no loud conversation, no noise, no accidents, no ugly American dress, and no asking questions, and especially about the bill.

Oh, before I forget, I looked at tablelog, a Japanese survey of restaurants by users. I found out that Jiro ranks #48, and not number one. I laughed a little, I still think he is much better than Saito sushi, which is a very bad joke. So most probably tablelog is not reliable enough for my taste, or does it get “fixed” by users and friends. I did learn that some hotel GM’s were fired for having employees post raving reviews on Trip Advisor.

 

 


Filed under: Sushi n'Style Tagged: Jiro, Jiro sushi, restaurants in Tokyo, Saito sushi, scary people in Japan, Sushi, Tokyo

Saba Sashimi

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I posted this photo because you can see the interior flesh has become more pink and red, and at the outer layer white exterior, made up of a higher concentration of fat. The season is in the peak right now, the fish should look exactly like this if it comes from the seas around Japan.


Filed under: Sushi n'Style Tagged: Saba, Sushi

Torigai Ponzu

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The Torigai is a fantastic fish, all textural, no real distinctive taste as we know it. Shellfish have varying degrees of flesh and texture. For the most part there are three categories; one, soft and chewy, chewy and crunchy. This is soft and chewy, I am asked to use the ponzu, a sauce made by the chef, chopped onion, shoyu, and some secret ingredients. It is the perfect combination.

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Filed under: Sushi n'Style Tagged: cockles in Japan, Sushi, taste of sashimi, torigai

O et Chu Toro

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I am not going to write a long post about the differences between Chu-Toro and O-Toro. The main difference is the fatty taste, a taste that varies from catch to catch. I cannot think of a fish that I respect as much. These fish are cleaver, tough and are always moving. Their bodies are perfectly regulated by temperature. This is a good example, on the left chu-toro and on the right O-Toro – look carefully and see the differences.

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Filed under: Sushi n'Style Tagged: chu-toro, Japan, Japanese tuna, o-toro, Oma, sushi grade tuna, Tokyo, Toro, Tuna, Tuna fish

Bespoke Sushi Rice – video

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I watched numerous of videos of Gaijin making sushi rice, often I laughed, even felt like crying. The fact is, sushi rice is made in a very simple manner. The keys are: rice, vinegar, etc. The liquid mixture you see being spread over the rice is the secret of the sushi chef. The rest is easy if you know what you are doing. remember the more simple it is, the more complex.

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Filed under: Sushi n'Style Tagged: making sushi rice, sushi rice
Bespoke Sushi Rice

ika-ika sumi

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You don’t see it, I added French black truffle to the underside of the sumi-ika, and it works very well in conjunction with the crunchy squid. The idea of introducing truffle with fish does work, it adds a dimension of taste and texture. The aroma of the truffle provides an olfactory high.


Filed under: Sushi n'Style Tagged: black truffle, sushi and truffle
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